Surprised by Tagaytay

I thought there were only three things I could love about Tagaytay. 

First is the cool weather, especially during the "ber" months and during the early parts of the year.  The touch of the cool air and the sight of fog during these months refresh me - no matter what emotional and mental state I am in. 

A second thing I love about Tagaytay is its many retreat houses.  They say that Tagaytay is the second Vatican of the Philippines, second only to New Manila where many of the Religious Congregations in the Philippines are located.  The wonderful thing about this second Vatican is that it does not have provincial houses but the retreat and formation houses of various religious congregations and orders.  Most have a good view of Taal Lake and have well-tended gardens where one can just walk, contemplate on life, or simply spend moments of "sacred idleness."  It's like literally breathing in the goodness and beauty of nature and the Creator whose hands are behind this beautiful work of art.  Staying for a couple of days in these retreat houses never fail to nurture my spirit. 


My favorite spot at the Villa Luisa Retreat House - perfect for journal writing and "sacred idling"
Thirdly, Tagaytay is a perfect place to take long walks.  Bert, my walking friend, and I try to take really long walks here during December.  On our first, we set our eyes on walking  from Tagaytay proper to the boundary of Nasugbu, Batangas.  If my memory serves me right, it was a good 17 kilometers walk.  On our second, we didn't really know where we were headed.  We just started walking from the Silang boundary area toward the inner roads of Tagaytay and ended up in the town proper of Silang.  When we reached the retreat house where my friend parked his car, the brothers who were having their lunch retreat, were kidding us.  They said we might have forgotten that it was Christmas season and not Lent.  Both walks were great but not without leaving me with something to remember the walk by.  On the first, I had a dead toenail for about 6 months;  on the second, I had blisters on my feet that took several days to heal.  Still, I look forward to having another long walk in Tagaytay.  Meanwhile, whenever I find myself in Tagaytay and don't feel too physically battered to walk I take hour or so walks by myself.  My favorite part is the road along Magallanes Drive leading to Silang, or the inner roads on the way to the People's Park. The cool weather, the friendly people, the trees and the quiet (away from the more busy main roads of Tagaytay) make for a perfect walk - whether for exercise or for contemplative walk.

So, those were three things that made me go back to Tagaytay, aside from occasional work engagements before working full time.  During the last decade though, Tagaytay surprised me with places which serve what I would consider food for the soul.  The discovery is another earth school experience.   There is always something new to discover and explore.  There is always a creative life waiting to be born everywhere, including, and most especially, in our Self.

I am not going to talk here about the Manila restaurants that had mushroomed along the ridges.  Rather, I will be sharing about the home-grown and very promising eating places that one finds in the most unexpected places.   Aside from Gourmet's Cafe along Silang which had been there for ages, Bag O' Beans' wonderful baked goods, and Sonya's Garden that has become so popular that it is no longer that quiet haven it used to be, I had discovered several restos during the last several years. 

Here are my favorites, all of them in "build-it-and-they-will-come" locations.

One truly feels the presence of Goddess Hestia 

Ferrero Rocher Gelato
Chateau Hestia (Barangay Bukal, Silang):  My favorites here are not the main courses but the very nice freshly baked bread and eggplant pate that go well with their house wine made by Johannes himself, the Austrian owner.  Their homemade gelato (ferrero rocher is my favorite) is also lovely.  What I love most about this place though is the ambiance.  It is nestled in a garden and has a lovely country home feel and adorned with the art works of the daughter of Johannes and his Filipina wife.  I always love to just laze by the resto long after I am done with my meal.  The place truly lives up to the name of the goddess of hearth from whom it was named. 

Bawais Vietnamese Kitchen (Barangay Bukal, Silang):  Very close to Chateau Hestia is Bawais which serves authentic Vietnamese cuisine.  Back in 2009 when we dined in Bawais, it was literally a house that was converted into a dining place only on certain days of the week.  According to ba wai (grandma), her children's (or was it just a son?) friends would frequent their place to have a taste of her cooking, and as the volume of friends expanded they were inspired to set up the small restaurant.  A nice, homey place, the resto can only accommodate guests with reservations unless there are no-shows.  Food is not just nicely cooked but beautifully presented as well.  Indeed, food at Bawais is food for the soul.  My favorites?  The fresh spring roll and caramelized salmon.


Vietnamese Spring Roll
Nurture Spa Village Restaurant (Barangay Maitim II West, Tagaytay City):  I was having one of those I-need-some-breathing-space moments after a whole-day workshop in Tagaytay when I chanced upon this dining place.  I had intended to get a massage but there was no therapist available.  So, I decided to look around and found the spot by the garden quite inviting for a merienda cena.  I can't really remember what I had on that first visit aside from the lemongrass tea but I certainly enjoyed what I had and promised to come back.  And come back I did!  This time I came  with a friend and made a mental note of what I loved the most:  Bahay Kubo Soup (minestrone using local veggies), Nurture Spring Roll, and Tilapya sa Laing. I also had a sip of my friend's Potato and Leek soup and liked it.  I've come back a couple more times, not for a massage but for the dining experience.  My pesco-vegetarian diet could only appreciate several of their food offerings but I've always loved the place.  It's a perfect choice when one wants a  nice quiet meal away from the hustle and bustle of Tagaytay proper.

Il Gallo Nero (Alfonso, Tagaytay):  Hotel Alfonso's restaurant, Il Gallo is like a quiet nook off the road.  Though not visible along Tagaytay's main road (Aguinaldo Highway), it is easily accessible by the entrance of Royal Tagaytay Estates.  An Italian restaurant, Il Gallo had raised my standards of a really nice pizza which is what I loved the most about Il Gallo.  Their thinly crusted pizzas are to die for.  The  crust is crispy without being too hard to the bite.  In fact it felt like the crust melts into the mouth together with the cheese and toppings with which the pizza is generously dished up.  Though a bit pricey, it is an indulgence worth taking once in a while. 

I must confess that eating, like love and cooking, is something I approach with reckless abandon.











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